Alsace grapes are a unique bunch - by MICHAEL LONSFORD
Alsace, in France's northeastern corner, is achingly picturesque — and linguistically and culinarily confusing. Because the region, between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River, has bounced back and forth between French and German control over the centuries, it has become something of each. Many of the towns and vineyards have German names — Kaisersberg, Pfingstberg. The architecture looks German, too, and the food is a cross between French and German. Charcuterie, anyone? But the wines of Alsace are unique.
For one thing, Alsace is the only French wine region that requires the name of the grape on the label. And while some of those names may sound German — riesling, gewürztraminer — Alsace wines have their own persona. Almost all the wines are white, and they are big, ripe and often alcoholic and go with a wide array of foods. Not just Western European cuisine, either, but Thai and Indian food, as well — maybe even Mexican. The wines are rich and versatile and, considering their competition, usually are very good values.
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